Start with whatever you still have
The broken original is the best starting point, even in pieces. Failing that, photos of the mounting location, the part it interfaces with, and any surviving fragment will get us a long way.
- The broken part, photographed from several angles against a ruler.
- Measurements of the critical features: hole spacing, shaft diameter, slot width, overall envelope.
- Photos of where it fits and what it touches.
- Any model or part number printed on the item or in its manual.
Which features actually have to be exact
Replacement parts rarely need every dimension to match. What matters is the interfaces: where it bolts, clips, slots, or rotates. Cosmetic surfaces usually have room to move.
Telling us which dimensions are functional and which are not makes the part cheaper and more likely to fit first time.
Be realistic about why it broke
If the original failed under load, heat, or repeated flexing, an identical copy in the wrong material will fail the same way. Describing the failure — snapped, worn, melted, cracked at a corner — lets us match material and geometry to the actual conditions.
Sometimes the right answer is a slightly thicker section or a different material rather than an exact replica.
The ownership question
You must own, have created, or have authorization to use any design you submit. For replacement parts made from your own broken component this is normally straightforward, but every STL submission requires you to confirm it.
What to expect
We review what you send, come back with questions if the information is incomplete, and quote once we understand the part. Timelines depend on complexity and current production schedule, so include your deadline with the request.